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Please visit my materials list [link] before asking any questions! It's been updated after making this tutorial so there are some new techniques and tools!


Part 2: [link]


I spilled water on my laptop this morning, while working on it, so I had to delay it's progress until I fixed it :(

These are general guidelines for anyone feeling a little lost. Finding out what other materials you need may take trials and practice. Further information may just take some google-ing. If you have any specific questions you really can't find the answer to then feel free to ask~

I'll try to make a full list of materials later on so be a little patient with me ^^

(I apologize, in advance, for any typos or grammar errors :P)

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May 6, 2012
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:iconnarsisblack:
*NarsisBlack Apr 10, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
i have a question again :aww: would the pencils draw better if i seal the face more than once or i have to change my pencil brand? (it's cretacolor)
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:iconamber-honey:
~Amber-Honey Apr 10, 2013  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Hi there!
It's a little difficult to say without seeing the results ^^; I've never tried any watercolor brand other than derwent or prismacolor, and I've only had success with Mr.Super Clear Flat sealant. You didn't mention what type of sealant you use, but if it's MSC, I think you may need to change your watercolor pencils.

You shouldn't have to use more than one or two coats of sealant to get good pencil lines, is what I'm saying :]
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:iconnarsisblack:
*NarsisBlack Apr 13, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
thank you so much, :aww:
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:iconkrufka:
That's a very helpful tut, thank you! I have a question - does the same technique apply to blushing the doll's body? I wonder, because you warned about spilling blush cleaner over it.
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:iconamber-honey:
~Amber-Honey Mar 29, 2013  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Thank you! ^^

For the body, you can technically use acetone/brush cleaner, but it will melt the hard plastic a little bit and produce a bad smell. I don't recommend it since you can usually remove any doll tattoos with a bit of sanding. The only situation where it may be useful is If you need to remove a previous blush-job.

If you want to blush the body or repair melted plastic, I suggest you lightly sand (using a high grit like 800-2000) and buff the body (you can buff them with a soft cloth). These dolls come with some kind of plastic film that sealant does not adhere to all too well and can cause the blushing to flake- so sanding it first, I think, may be necessary. Brush cleaner isn't needed for the blushing, for the most part.

I hope this is helpful, I'm not an expert on body blushing and have yet to do it, myself. But I've read about this info in several different places from other customizers :]
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:iconkrufka:
Thank you so much! I'm planning to buy my first MH for customizing and I had no idea the bodies were made from a different material than the heads :) I've seen people sand the bodies to remove seams (like here [link]), they looked so much nicer afterwards, even without blushing (probably with some matte sealant added on top to remove the shine).
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:iconjenn1977:
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. It gives people like my self a start off point until we feel sure enough of ourselves to try something of our own. :)
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:iconamber-honey:
~Amber-Honey Jan 28, 2013  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Oh, I'm so very glad to be of help!! ^^ Thank you <3
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:iconfairysquisher22:
Thank you so much for this tutorial! It is really helpful!!
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:iconamber-honey:
~Amber-Honey Dec 29, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Glad to hear that <3 Thank you!
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