◈ ◇ ◆ Preparation Tools ◆ ◇ ◈
- 100% pure acetone (found in the beauty supply sections) make sure it's colorless, and cotton swabs. I used to use Windsor & Newton Brush cleaner, which worked okay, but acetone is less expensive and wiped everything off easier. Do not allow it to drip onto hard plastics (such as the body) as it will melt the plastic and release fumes.
- Cling wrap, painter's tape, and masking tape; these are for wrapping your doll's hair and body to protect it from being sprayed with sealant or getting scratched/dirty. If sealant sprays onto the dolls hair, the hair becomes coated in dried, white, sealant that is difficult to remove.
- Respirator. I use one from 3M, I suggest visiting your local hardware store and ask them for solid suggestions since I don't know too much about these masks. Also, make sure your filters are changed after a while (I think 6 months is the usual?) I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001… with these filters: www.amazon.com/3M-R6001-Organi…
- Cotton and Plastic gloves , I use the cotton ones when I am painting to prevent any oils from my fingers from getting on the face (oils make the face dirty and can damage the sealant). The plastic ones are best when spraying sealant in order to protect your hands.
◈ ◇ ◆ Sealant ◆ ◇ ◈
- Mr. Super Clear FLAT (there is a UV cut option, I don't use it often because it's more expensive and most useful for BJDs prone to yellowing) Shake very well and spray from about elbow's length. I no longer dip it in warm water since I noticed it's just wasteful and doesn't make a difference.
◈ ◇ ◆ Watercolor Pencils ◆ ◇ ◈
- Derwent and Prismacolor
note: These work well along side MSC sealant. I've never tried them on vinyl alone because that can stain the plastic. Also, there may be other watercolor pencils that work well, but from my experience the less expensive brands are not as efficient or pigmented.
-Sharpeners. The only thing that helps me make thin lines. Buy a couple different kinds, they will always need replacement after some time and get to know which brand you like most!
-Erasers, preferably in a holder that retracts. I love Mars Plastic. Use erasers to soften lines or completely remove them (less messy than water and also works on blush)
-Exacto knife, good for shaping pencil points and erasers.
◈ ◇ ◆ Pastels ◆ ◇ ◈
- Most chalk pastels work fine. I use Michaels Artists Loft and Schmincke. Less expensive ones are not as pigmented so they need to be layered with sealant more so than more expensive brands. I use the less expensive ones for colors I don't often need. I shave off powder with an exacto knife. You can also use sandpaper. With the more expensive one, I can just brush off the powder with no effort.
◈ ◇ ◆ Acrylics ◆ ◇ ◈
- My current favorite is Folk Art brand. I used to use Vallejo, but it can be very thick, even with thinner.
- Thinner, preferably the same brand as your acrylics but most work fine. Always useful when you want less opaque lines (be careful not to layer too much as thinner causes acrylics to clump up)
◈ ◇ ◆ Brushes ◆ ◇ ◈
- I use many different make-up brushes (the bristles are made for holding powders so it's excellent for cleaning teeny debris and blushing) and small/thin paint brushes (for any line-work). For the white highlight dots in the eyes, I often use a toothpicks.
◈ ◇ ◆ Finish ◆ ◇ ◈
- Gloss. I use Tamiya x-22. I cannot vouch for other glosses but there are others you can try like Liquitex, etc. Leave any glossing for last!
- Shimmer. I use Jacquard Pearl-EX shimmers, they come in tons of colors! You need to spray it with sealant, but do so from a farther distance so as to not blow away or overcoat the shimmers.
Thank you for reading! I hope this is helpful to you, please ask any questions in the comments section. Also, it would be more than appreciated if you could reference this and credit me if you've found it useful on your work ^^